Northwest Sewn Leads Seattle in Textile Circularity Movement

Seattle is not often the first place that enters one’s mind in thinking about the fashion industry. When it comes to getting dressed, a casual style is widely accepted.

The city has contributed greatly, however, to the business side of things. It is the headquarters of several world-renowned retailers with a legacy in local manufacturing, like Filson (est. 1897), Nordstrom (est. 1901), Eddie Bauer (est. 1920), and REI (est. 1937). Despite not being a fashion capital, even with so many “heritage brands,” Seattle is recognized as a creative city.

This history inspired me to build a career in product development in fashion. Although, by the time I started nearly 15 years ago, the majority of production had been offshored due to economic pressures from globalization. Furthermore, the rate at which the industry operated steadily increased, exacerbating the ecological issues that currently exist in Seattle and beyond. One such issue is textile waste.

Of the 3.8 billion pounds of clothes thrown away every year, Seattle and King County account for about 40,000 tons. This is alarming for a couple of reasons. The first, because it is wasteful. 95% of discarded clothes can be recycled. The second, because the majority of the clothes produced today are made from plastic and landfills can leak microplastics and toxic chemicals that contaminate soil and water.

The harm caused by this phenomenon—also known as “fast fashion”—is steering the industry toward circularity. Circularity in this context, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, means “clothes, textiles, and [fibers] are kept at their highest value during use and re-enter the economy after use, never ending up as waste.” Researchers around the world are examining the landscape and publishing case studies that illustrate how a more responsible business model can be adopted. Similar efforts are being put forth locally through initiatives like Northwest Sewn.

Northwest Sewn is on a mission to further the city’s sewn trades legacy by helping to shape a circular textile economy. It was founded in 2015 by Seattle Good Business Network (a non-profit organization promoting small businesses) to connect and promote makers and resources. At the moment, local manufacturing is both overburdened and underfunded.

For example, a common issue amongst local labels is securing enough sewing capacity. Many share a limited number of sewers whose expertise is seemingly few and far between. Therefore, widening the net of qualified workers through this initiative is necessary to build the infrastructure back better. So far, over the span of nine years, Northwest Sewn has grown into a sprawling network of designers, educators, manufacturers, researchers, and sewers who want to responsibly rebuild local manufacturing within the region.

Attendees at Northwest Food and Fiber fundraiser / The Evergreen Echo

On October 12, 2024, Northwest Sewn hosted its inaugural Northwest Food and Fiber event to raise funds for their work and announce a new membership structure. While being a member is still free, there is now a one-time $50 application fee. It unlocks benefits such as exclusive events and workshops, a listing in the industry directory, business discounts, and sustainability consultations. I recently joined the initiative as a fellow to assist with the launch and community engagement.

The fundraiser was held at the warehouse of Prairie Underground, a longtime partner and sponsor. Over 100 community members gathered to celebrate “what’s grown and sewn locally.” The space was vibrant, filled with music and an array of diverse dishes curated by Chef Sabrina Tinsley of Osteria La Spiga. It was a visceral reminder of how the intersection between food and fiber reflects the need for interdisciplinary connection across the industry.

The featured chefs included Alex Dorros of Siembra, Safira Ezani and Masitah Hamzah of Masakan, Theary Ngeth of Theary Cambodian Foods, Mahogany Williams of The Pickled Chef, Harold Fields of Umami Kushi, Karen Sandoval of Bakescapade, and Tanya Nguyen of Chu Mihn Tofu. Each highlighted the richness of diversity in the region. Their menus ranged from savory to sweet, offering everything from conchas to skewers to okazu pan. Drinks both alcoholic and non-alcoholic were provided by Hand of God Wines.

As cocktails and conversations flowed, Tinsley and several community leaders took to the mic to emphatically express their appreciation for the outpouring of support. Erin Adams, the Executive Director, was possibly the most elated, having worked on Northwest Sewn since its inception and “long wanted to produce an event that raises awareness about these key local industries that contribute so much to our local economy, culture, and resilience.” She welcomed new community members and explained the significance of their contribution, stating, “The success of these often small-to-medium sized businesses is directly tied to them knowing of and [collaborating] with each other and in making sure the public is aware of them and the value they bring to our place.”

Speaker: Erin Adams, Executive Director at Seattle Good Business Network / The Evergreen Echo

Sydney Porter, the Program Coordinator, was also in attendance. She echoed Erin’s sentiments when asked for her thoughts, urging community members to “bear in mind that everything we wear and everything we eat share this fact in common: Human hands bring something out of the earth and shape that something into what we need for daily life.”

The symbiotic relationship between people and the planet was on full display during the fashion show that followed the inspiring speeches. Directed by Jamuna Kaur, an embodied artist and facilitator, the show highlighted five local designers: Refugee Artisan Initiative, Eileen Fisher Renew, Meka, Upcycled by Armoire, New Affection, and Prairie Underground. Each collection showcased how creativity meets sustainability by using reclaimed textiles.

Casual style was well represented. Refugee Artisan displayed how seemingly unusable materials, like Starbucks coffee bags, can be transformed into a raincoat—a must-have in any Seattle wardrobe. Eileen Fisher Renew stayed true to form, highlighting neutral-colored and soft textured basics. Meka delivered fall dresses in a variety of silhouettes and lengths from bodycon to babydoll to midi.

Upcycled by Armoire showed how a little applique and embroidery can go a long way in creating a fun look. Prairie Underground played with color and pattern mixing, pairing stripes with herringbone and bold with muted colors. New Affection centered denim with dyes reminiscent of the night sky, sheer tops with exposed seams and contrast thread, and intricately designed patchwork dresses. There was something for everyone to enjoy.

Events like these prove the power of circularity. Textiles can be saved from the landfill and reused in a way that serves the maker, the wearer, and nature. In order to bring more people into the fold, we need easier access to resources. Northwest Sewn is working to make this possible. Perhaps this is the beginning of a new legacy that the city will leave.